Here we go again, escaping the heat and humidity of summer in South Carolina in exchange for elegant and exciting eastern Canada.   This 10-day trip with Carolina Tours covered a lot of territory – heading north, we left South Carolina and drove through North Carolina, Virginia, West Virginia, and Pennsylvania.  We stopped overnight in Pennsylvania, but the real fun started when we got into northern New York.  Hope you enjoy reading about our adventures and seeing pictures of some of the scenery.

NEW YORK

Giovanni da Verrazano, an Italian-born navigator sailing for France, discovered New York Bay in 1524. He was followed by Henry Hudson, an Englishman employed by the Dutch, and Samuel de Champlain, a French explorer.  The Dutch established a colony in New York 1625, but by 1664, it was all surrendered to the English.  The historic appeal of rural and small-town America lives on in the Finger Lakes region. 

The Finger Lakes region of New York State is a 9,000 square mile area that includes 14 counties with 11 lakes, 400 historic sites and landmarks, 100 miles of the historic Erie Canal, more than 135 museums, 1063 waterfalls, over 70 wineries, 650 miles of shoreline, the 17-mile Grand Canyon of the East, more than 2000 miles of hiking/biking trails, 95 public campgrounds, 160 golf courses, 33 tour boats, 25 state parks and one national forest.  

Eleven pristine lakes spread like fingers across central New York. Native American legend has it that these lakes were left behind by the Great Spirit who blessed this land with his hands.  Unless the Great Spirit had 11 fingers, it’s more likely that glacier activity carved them out eons ago.  Nevertheless, the Indian legend is echoed in the names of these fresh water lakes: Skaneateles, Otisco, Owasco, Cayuga, Seneca, Keuka, Canandaigua, Honeoye, Canadice, Conesus and Hemlock.  Each lake is connected by rivers ultimately leading into Lake Ontario, and beyond the major lakes, there are numerous smaller lakes, ponds and tributaries. 

Cayuga County is home to seven lakes, and its waterways have long provided beauty, recreation, and a path for commerce.  Nestled in the heart of the Finger Lakes region, the county is bound by water:  Lake Ontario to the north, Cayuga Lake to the west, and Skaneateles Lake to the east.  With the Erie Canal and four other lakes, the county has more fresh water coastline than any county in the state.

Skaneateles Lake is 16 miles long and about three-quarters mile wide, with a maximum depth of 315 ft.  Its name means long lake in the local Iroquoian language.  Homes here are serviced by one of the country’s few remaining water routes for mail delivery.  The cleanest of the Finger Lakes, its water is so pure that the city of Syracuse and other municipalities use it unfiltered.  Skaneateles Lake is the second cleanest lake in the U.S. after Crater Lake in Oregon.  The village of Skaneateles was incorporated in 1833 and has about 2500 permanent residents.   We stopped here for lunch and time for walking to admire the old buildings, old cars and big houses.  

 

We then went for a boat tour on the lake and admired lots more big houses, many of which are just vacation homes for folks living in the big city. 

 

After all that excitement, we spent the night in Auburn NY, located at the north end of Owasco Lake.  Carolina Tours treated us all to a pizza party for supper, but we still had time to wander the town a bit and enjoy a visit to St. Mary’s Catholic Church. 

 

QUEBEC

Quebec is the largest of Canada’s 10 provinces in size and is second only to Ontario in population. Its capital, Quebec City, is the oldest city in Canada. The name Quebec, first bestowed on the city in 1608 and derived from an Algonquian word meaning “where the river narrows.”  The province of Quebec is different from the rest of Canada – here the official language is French.  Of the total population of Quebec, nearly half are descendants of the 10,000 original French settlers.  Welcome to New France in North America!

BEAUPRE COAST (COTE BEAUPRE’)

The Beaupré Coast extends for about 30 miles along the St. Lawrence River, north of Quebec City.  Beaupré is postcard-pretty, and it is also one of Quebec’s most historic regions. Explorer Samuel de Champlain built a livestock ranch here in the 1620s, and the pioneering Monseigneur de Laval developed a sprawling estate in the 1660s that became known as “the garden of Quebec City” for its rich farmland.  Route 360, known as Avenue Royale, is the main highway along the river; it is dotted with quaint farmhouses, some of which date from the 1700s.  Many of these have tin roofs. One of the houses had a porch railing made of the metal leftover from making ice skate blades. 

 

 

Montmorency Falls (Chutes Montmorency), 275 ft high, are the highest in the province of Quebec and 98 ft higher than Niagara Falls. The falls are at the mouth of the Montmorency River where it drops over the cliff into the Saint Lawrence River. In 1613, Samuel de Champlain named the falls in honor of Henri II, duc de Montmorency, who served as viceroy of New France from 1620 until 1625.  

The Basilica of Sainte Anne de Beaupre is the oldest pilgrimage site in North America.  It honors the patron saint of Québec, who is credited with many miracles of healing the sick and disabled.  This religious shrine in the small town of Sainte-Anne-de-Beaupré was first constructed in 1658; the current structure was built in the 1920s following a fire.       

Pilgrims travel across the globe to pay their respects to Saint Anne and to benefit from her miraculous healing powers. Legend has it that one of the basilica's original builders began his work on crutches, and was able to walk without them upon the construction's completion. Many visitors commemorate their own miracles by leaving behind a crutch or brace.  

 

Approaching the front of the Basilica, we see two statues of St. Anne.  The first is part of a beautiful fountain and the second sits high atop the roof of the church.  The statue between the two bell towers was saved from the destructive fire in 1922.  

The main doors of the basilica are covered with embossed copper work, all done by hand. The panel represent many scenes from the life of Jesus.  This work of art was created by Albert Gilles, a master coppersmith from France.

While the outside of the basilica is a sight to behold, the inside is also breathtaking. The central vault is completely covered in mosaics, while 240 stained-glass windows drench the basilica with color.   

 


The center aisle contains allegorical images of the seven deadly sins, ending near the altar with a scene from the Garden of Eden. 

   

 

Downstairs is the Immaculate Conception Chapel, with 176 small mosaics covering the pillars.   Quite amazing pictures of birds, flowers and butterflies.

Pilgrims often gather at the foot of this large statue of Saint Anne.  The floor is marked at the spot where Pope John-Paul II knelt to pray to the saint. 

 

The ambulatory (behind the altar) is lined with beautifully decorated chapels.  Each is dedicated to a different saint, most of whom have some relation to St. Anne.

On the hillside near the Basilica is the Memorial Chapel, a souvenir of the church that welcomed pilgrims from 1676 to 1876.  The chapel was built using materials, decor, and the steeple retrieved from the ruins of the shrine’s first chapel. 

This also is the starting point for the Way of the Cross - 14 bronze statues representing different moments in the Passion of Jesus.  The path leads to another chapel at the top of the hill; truly devout pilgrims climb the hill on their knees. 

 


The Albert Gilles workshop and museum is the place to learn about the art of metal embossing, to see some of the copper art created by the master artisan before his death, as well as the newer pieces done by his wife, daughters and granddaughter.   Metal embossing (repousse‘) is a slowly disappearing art.  The Gilles family prides itself on creating artistic and useful objects from a natural resource of Canada. 

 

Albert Gilles is best known for his decorations in many churches, Basilica and Cathedrals across Canada, including the Basilica doors at St. Anne de Beaupre.  He also created the Christorama, the story of the Life of Christ told in 50 hand- wrought silver panels, and did work for Pope Pius XII, and Roy and Walt Disney. 

The family workshop contains a wide array of copper items – religious designs, Quebec souvenirs, clocks, large and small plates and serving platters, lamps and candle holders, desk accessories, jewelry, and enameled plates and pictures. 

Our favorite stop in the Beaupre‘ area was Chez Marie, a bakery located in a stone house built in 1652 – today operated by the fourth generation of the same family.  They’re still baking in an old stone oven and storing vegetables in an even older root cellar.  The bakery offers fresh bread and pastries, as well as delicious maple products.   Known for a slice of homemade bread covered with maple butter, the shop owners invited us to taste this simple delight.   It may be simple, but it sure was good – we all lined up to buy maple syrup and maple butter to bring home.  Now to find some homemade bread ...

 

Orleans Island (Ile d’Orelans) is a small (5 miles wide, 22 miles long) island in the St. Lawrence River, stretching between Quebec City and Beaupre.  The island was discovered in 1535 by the French explorer Jacques Cartier.  Its fertile soil and abundant fishing made the island very attractive to settlers.         The island’s residents have resisted most sorts of development, so a visit here gives a feel for traditional life in rural Quebec.

 

 

  

Today the island sends much of its produce to markets and restaurants in Quebec City, but in summer there are plenty of roadside stands selling fruit from orchards and fields nearby.  We stopped at a strawberry farm and picked up a basket of the best strawberries we’ve ever tasted – so red, so ripe, so sweet – had to ration them to keep from making ourselves sick. 

 

 

QUEBEC CITY

Quebec City is a charming European style city, perched on the hill above the St. Laurence River and surrounded by 400-year old ramparts.  It is one of the most beautiful cities in North America and is a focal point of French culture on the continent.  Samuel de Champlain established a small settlement here in 1608.  Initially a center for fur trading, the infant colony soon became the administrative center of French America.  As the capital of Québec Province, Québec City is a thriving commercial center that hasn't lost sight of its past. With its narrow streets, walled fortifications, and centuries-old buildings, Québec is a UNESCO World Heritage Site.

UPPER TOWN

The Basilica of Our Lady of Quebec (Basilique Notre-Dame-de-Québec) was built in 1647, the first stone church in the new city. Although the church itself has been rebuilt several times, the Notre-Dame de Québec Basilica has stood on the same spot in the heart of Old Quebec since it was built, making it one of the oldest cathedrals in North America. It became a basilica two hundred years later because it attracted large numbers of pilgrims.

 

The exterior may seem a bit dull (except for the green lamp-posts), but the architecture, design and artwork inside are breathtaking. Notre-Dame de Québec is gilded in shimmering gold leaf, historical religious paintings and treasures that date back to the French-colonial period.   The cathedral’s crypt is the resting place of more than 900 people, including archbishops, cardinals and governors.

 

The square in front of the Basilica was a favorite spot for street performers, as is true for most squares around the old town.  We enjoyed watching this fellow making bilingual jokes, engaging unsuspecting audience members, and balancing on top of a ladder. 

 

Across the square is another immense building; this one is the City Hall (Hotel-de-Ville).  Topped with turrets and a patina roof, this stone building was constructed in 1895 on the site of an even older Jesuit college and church.

And around the corner is St. John Street (rue St. Jean), which leads into the bohemian area known as St-Jean-Baptiste.  Restaurants, hip cafes and bars, and interesting shops line the thoroughfare between the Norte Dame Basilica and the old city wall.

 

Up one side street, we found the Canadian Institue of Quebec (L'Institut Canadien de Québec), a non-profit organization that manages Québec City's public library network, and next door, the Morrin Center, built over 200 years ago as the city's first prison, now housing one of Québec's public libraries. 

 

Down another side street is the Hotel-Dieu de Québec, a teaching hospital affiliated with the Laval University Medical School.  The hospital was founded in 1637 by Marie-Madeleine de Vignerot to meet the colony's need for healthcare. She entrusted the operation of the facility to the Augustinian Sisters, due to their vocation as nurses.  Somewhere on a wall of the hospital, there is a mural depicting the evolution of practitioners, techniques and buildings through nearly 400 years of history.  This photo is borrowed from a better photographer, one who had time to find the mural before the sun went down.

 

This area is loaded with interesting places, such as this café called Les Trois Garcons (The Three Boys).  We heard they had good hamburgers, but our favorite food stops were down the road a bit.

Paillard is known for fresh bread, pastries, sandwiches and ice cream.  We enjoyed just walking near the delicious aroma emanating from the open door.  We bought fresh bread and cheese for a picnic lunch – good to the last bite.

 

Chocolato is perhaps the best ice cream concept ever.  They serve several flavors of soft-serve ice cream and frozen custard, but the best part is that they have 20 different flavors of chocolate in which to dip your cone.  The store also carries all sorts of chocolate products, including canned chocolate dipping sauce (perfect for fondue).  It was a fun and delicious place to visit.  

  

Le Chateau Frontenac - our hotel - is said to be the world's most photographed hotel.  The Canadian Pacific Railway built this iconic hotel in 1894, and it has endured as the historic city's most impressive landmark.  Château Frontenac sits atop the original site of Fort St. Louis; its ruins are visible underneath hotel promenade.  

Because the building is so large and sits on a cliff, it is visible from all over town.  This makes it easy to find, but also very tempting to take yet another picture from yet another vantage point.  No wonder it’s the most photographed hotel in the world!  Over the years, the Chateau’s turrets, winding hallways and imposing location have lured a never-ending line up of luminaries, including Alfred Hitchcock, who chose this setting for the opening scene of his 1953 mystery, I Confess.  During WWII, Prime Minister MacKenzie King, Winston Churchill and Franklin Roosevelt planned D-Day here.

 

The neighborhood near the hotel was charming, in spite of being sometimes crowded with tourists eager to have a look at the hotel. 

 

The most popular restaurant around was Aux Anciens Canadiens, located in the historic Maison Jacquet, built in 1675-76.   The restaurant specializes in traditional Quebecois cuisine.    The menu was heavy on game (bison, deer, duck, caribou) and offered lots of unfamiliar things to try – mincemeat pies, poutine, grillades, and maple syrup pie.  We’re still not sure what we ate, but it was delicious!

Just behind the restaurant, we found a small grocery store (epicerie) that was useful for picking up snacks and learning more about what the locals eat.  One of our favorites was the Joe Louis cake – it looks a bit like a moon pie, but it’s made with red velvet cake with creamy filling.  Cheap and delicious!

 

Around the corner, more churches.  On the left is the Chapel of the Ursuline Convent, and to the right is the Cathedral of the Holy Trinity. 

 

Dufferin Terrace (Terrasse Dufferin), perched on a clifftop above the river and wrapped around the Chateau Frontenac, is a 200-year-old wooden promenade that connects the historic battlefields to the Old City.  It is a perfect setting for a stroll, with spectacular, sweeping views. In winter it hosts a dramatic toboggan run.

It features several noteworthy sights, including Russian cannons captured by the British army during the Crimean War as well as the original fortifications of the Upper Town.  

The statue of Samuel de Champlain is host to an ever-changing variety of street performers, a Quebec City tradition.   

And, here is a statue of the very un-Canadian Space Elephant sculpture by Salvador Dali.  The work, which is worth $3.6 Million, is spending the summer on display at the Chateau Frontenac.  Public art is a big deal here.

The steep Breakneck Stairs (Escalier Casse-Cou) have 59 steps linking the Lower Town with the Upper Town.  They were built in 1635, making this the city's oldest stairway. In 1660, this staircase appears on a map of the village that grew into Québec City. The stairs have been restored several times since then.  Local residents gave it the name Breakneck because of the steep incline.

The Old Quebec City Funicular (Funiculaire du Vieux-Québec) is a funicular railway that links the Upper Town to the Lower Town of the city.  The funicular opened in 1879, and originally used a water ballast system of propulsion and steam power to move the cars up and down.  The line was converted to electrical operation in 1907.  The system consists of two cars which move on a double track railway; it is 210 feet long and 194 feet high.  If you can open your eyes, there’s a great view of the waterfront and the ferry that crosses the St. Lawrence to the town of Levis.

LOWER TOWN

Old Québec (Vieux-Québec) is a walk through 400 years of history.  Clustered around the city's harbor on the banks of the St. Lawrence River are the quaint stone buildings and narrow, winding streets of Old Québec. This historic neighborhood (and UNESCO World Heritage site) houses some of the city's most notable sites, but the real attraction is its atmosphere – its artisan shops and charming cafes make it feel like being in Europe.

Home of Louis Jolliet (Maison Louis Jolliet) belonged to Louis Jolliet, who was born here in in Quebec City.  This house was built in 1683 and he lived here until his death in 1700.  Jolliet was a fur trader, but is best known for discovering the Mississippi River during one of his expeditions with Father Jacques Marquette.   The main entrance to the funicular is located in this historic house.

 

The Museum of Civilization (Musée de la Civilisation) is a mix of modern design that incorporates pre-existing buildings with contemporary architecture.  It houses permanent and temporary exhibits that describe and explain the history and culture of French America. 

Place Royale is the spot where, in 1608, Samuel de Champlain founded a fur trading post that soon grew into the capital of French America.  This small section in Old Québec may just seem like a pretty place to shop or to grab a bite to eat, but Place Royale is widely considered to be the birthplace of the French colony and the French-American community. During the 17th and 18th centuries, this was the French colony's center of business and industry, supporting a thriving marketplace and housing many wealthy merchants. There are several notable tributes to the French Colonial past, including a striking bust of Louis XIV and the Église Notre-Dame-des-Victoires.

Louis XIV was King of France during the heyday of Quebec City.  He was known as the Sun King and reigned from 1643 until his death in 1715.

The Church of our Lady of Victories (Eglise Notre-Dame des Victoires) is the oldest stone church in the Quebec province and one of the oldest churches in all of North America.  It was built in 1688 atop the ruins of Champlain's first outpost. After being severely damaged during the Siege of Québec, the church was rebuilt in 1763. The interior décor bears witness to Québecers' faith and history. A model of the Brézé, a warship that helped protect the new colony, can be seen inside the church.

 

The Quebecers’ Fresco (Fresque des Québécois) was completed in 1999 and is located near Place Royale. The huge trompe-l'œil mural is 900 feet long and covers 4300 square feet.  The work is the result of a joint effort of Cité Création (an artist collective from Lyons, France), as well as several Quebec artists. The piece pays homage to the history of Quebec City by depicting a number of its key figures, such as Samuel de Champlain, Marie Guyart de l'Incarnation, Lord Dufferin and Félix Leclerc. It also features a number of the city's most notable architectural, geographical and cultural elements, such as Place Royale's historic homes, the stairs connecting upper and lower town, the walls surrounding Old Quebec, the city's coat of arms, and even Bonhomme Carnaval. Finally, the mural celebrates the various cultural communities that were and are part of life in the capital, namely Amerindians, French and British settlers, Irish immigrants, and of course contemporary Quebeckers.  

This mural is one of 20 in the region, commissioned between 1999 and 2008 to celebrate 400 years of the city's existence.  Although the pieces are fairly recent, they have quickly become part of the city's artistic and cultural heritage; the very things meant to memorialize the region's heritage have become an important part of the heritage themselves.  

The Quartier du Petit Champlain grew from a quaint portside neighborhood with fur trading warehouses and imposing traders’ homes into one of the oldest shopping districts in North America.   There is still a village atmosphere, with cobblestone narrow streets and old stone houses that now house some excellent restaurants, boutiques, galleries, bistros, and small hotels.  

 



Petit Champlain is also the place where we found our first Beaver Tails (or Queues de Castor), a fried dough pastry hand-stretched to resemble a beaver’s tail.  The pastry is topped with a choice of sweet condiments, such as whipped cream, banana slices, crumbled Oreos, cinnamon sugar, and chocolate hazelnut.   Beaver Tails were instantly named our favorite Canadian food.

 

 





The rue du Petit Champlain is the oldest street in the city.  It was once the main street of the harbor village, with trading posts and homes of rich merchants.  Quartier Petit-Champlain grew to be the bustling capital of New France, but today its narrow, pedestrian-only streets and low buildings make it one of the most scenic areas of the city and a lovely area to stroll, especially early in the morning before the crowds arrive.

The Fresco of le Petit Champlain (La Fresque du Petit-Champlain) was created in 2001 to depict the major stages in the history of Cap-Blanc, a working-class neighborhood in Quebec City.  The mural portrays the fishing and sea trade activities, the stories behind some of the city’s famous characters, and a number of major historical events such as a devastating fire in 1682, a military attack in 1759, and landslides in 1889. 

The Old Port dates from the 1600s, when ships brought supplies and settlers to the new colony.  At one time, this port was among the busiest on the continent.  Today, its riverside promenade allows visitors to walk along the dock where merchant and cruise ships are moored.  It is dotted with small merchants, park benches, dancing fountains, and the Café du Monde, which features tables and chairs standing in shallow pools of water – the ultimate in relaxation?

 

Oh, and if you turn around and look back uphill, it's easy to spot the Chateau Frontenac - towering above it all.  Makes it hard to get lost, which is a good thing.

FORTIFICATIONS

Fortifications of Québec National Historic Site are the largely restored old walls of the city.  They are protected as a Canadian National Historic site and a UNESCO World Heritage site and are North America’s only such walls north of Mexico. The three mile circuit around the walls provides nice vantage points on the city’s historical buildings and traces the perimeter of the Old Town.  The Fortifications of Québec is part of the defense system built between 1608 and 1871; it served as Canada's main military stronghold during colonial times.

 

Four of the original city gates are still standing:  St. Louis, St. John, Kent, and Prescott.  Both the St. Louis Gate and the Kent Gate were designed by William Lynn, an architect from Ireland. St. Louis and St. John are the main gates that give access to Quebec’s downtown. All three that we visited (St. Louis, St. Jean, and Kent) lead into the narrow sidewalks, sloping streets, and cobblestone roads of Old Quebec.

 

La Citadelle is North America's largest (40 acres) fort, begun by the French in the 1750s and completed by the British in 1850.  The formal entrance to the fort is the Dalhousie Gate, named in honor of Castle Dalhousie in Scotland.  La Citadelle was intended to defend against an American invasion that never came.   Ramparts, thick walls, and ditches surround this star-shaped structure that sits atop Cap Diamant. 

 

Battlefields Park (Parc des Champs-de-Bataille) is a clifftop park that commemorates the Battle of the Plains of Abraham, site of the 1759 battle between British General James Wolfe and French General Louis-Joseph Montcalm.  This bloody 30-minute battle resulted in the deaths of both generals and determined the fate of the North American continent. It is packed with old cannons, monuments and commemorative plaques.  The Plains of Abraham are named for Abraham Martin, a Frenchman who was one of the first farmers to settle in the area.

 

Near the battlefield is a beautiful sunken garden, known as the Joan of Arc Garden.  It was designed in 1938 to blend the French classical style with its geometric plan with the British-style flowerbeds containing some 350 varieties of perennials, annuals, and shrubs.  The statue of Joan of Arc is the centerpiece of the garden; it is one of four copies of the original by American sculptress Anna Hyatt Huntington.  The statue stands in tribute to the heroes of 1759 near the place where New France was lost to Britain.  The park also commemorates the Canadian national anthem, O Canada, which was performed here for the first time on June 24, 1880.

 

Parliament Hill, just outside the old city wall, is the seat of Québec's provincial government. The Parliament, constructed in 1877, could have been modeled on any number of Parisian public buildings.   The intricate Tourny Fountain (Fountaine de Tourny) was a gift from department store Simons to celebrate the city’s 400th anniversary in 2008. 

ONTARIO

Ontario is the second largest province of Canada in area, after Quebec. It occupies the strip of the Canadian mainland lying between the provinces of Quebec and Manitoba. The most populous Canadian province, Ontario is home to more than one-third of Canada’s total population.  Ontario’s landscape is a study in contrasts – from fertile farmland in the south, to the rocky and mineral-rich Canadian Shield, to the grassy lowlands of the north.  It has more than 250,000 lakes, which contain about one-fifth of the world's fresh water.  Ontario’s history was dominated by the British, so we’re back to speaking English.





Ottawa is the 4^th largest city in Canada and is the political capital of the country.  It grew up between 1820 and 1840 from a construction base when the Rideau Canal was built from Ottawa (the Ottawa River) to Kingston on Lake Ontario.  . British Colonel John By was in charge of the canal project, and consequently, the town was known as "Bytown." In 1854, the town changed its name to Ottawa and later became the Canadian capital. The Parliament buildings were built in 1865, high above the Ottawa River, and it was here that the country’s first Parliament met following the founding of the Dominion of Canada in 1867.

The 125 mile-long Rideau Canal twists through the downtown core of Ottawa and connects the city with Lake Ontario.  It is a UNESCO World Heritage site and one of the city's most beloved features.  The canal was originally intended as a strategic route between Montréal and Lake Ontario; the military need for this was demonstrated during the war with the United States in 1812. In summer, the canal and locks are an active waterway, and in winter, the frozen canal becomes a recreational area for skating and festivals. 

Our hotel, the Château Laurier is a most striking building on the canal banks. Though it has the air of a medieval castle, it actually was built in 1912 and is a prime example of how the Canadian railroad companies constructed grand hotels (and landmarks) across Canada.  No expense was spared; builders used granite blocks, white Italian marble, light buff Indiana limestone, copper for the roof, and a travertine marble staircase with brass railing.

Just off the lobby there are portraits from hometown photographer Yousuf Karsh, including his famous 1941 shot of a scowling Winston Churchill, taken seconds after Karsh snatched a cigar from the Prime Minister’s mouth. 

 

Across the street from the hotel is Canada’s National War Memorial.  It is a tall granite with bronze statues inside the arch.   It was first dedicated by King George VI in 1939 to commemorate the Canadians who died in the First World War.  It has been rededicated to include those killed in Second World War, Korean War, the Second Boer War and the War in Afghanistan.  In 2000, the Tomb of the Unknown Soldier was added to symbolize the sacrifices made by all Canadians who have died or may yet die for their country.

Parliament Hill, overlooking the Ottawa River, is the home of Canadian democracy and a proud national symbol. This is he home of the Parliament of Canada.  The Gothic architecture of the buildings is incredible both inside and out.  There are three main buildings:  the Center Block, where the two houses of Parliament meet, and two office buildings – House of Commons offices to the left and Senate offices to the right. 

The Center Block, was restored following a fire in 1916, and today is open to visitors for guided tours of the building.  It is the home of the Senate, the House of Commons and the Library of Parliament.  Here are photos of the Senate chamber and the interior of the library - all very beautiful.

 

The East and West Blocks both were constructed in 1860s and are good examples of High Victorian Gothic architecture.  This style is characterized by multiple pointed arches, stones of irregular shape, intricate masonry and stone carvings.  Pictured here is the East Block, which houses offices of members of the Senate.  (The West Block is undergoing major renovation; no photos were taken.)

The octagonal Parliament Library is the only part of Parliament to survive the 1916 fire, and continues in the Gothic Revival style that typifies the other buildings. The Library preserves the legislative documents of the Canadian government, offering direct access for members of Parliament.

Overlooking it all is the Peace Tower, which is covered in 370 gargoyles, grotesques, and friezes. The tower is considered a memorial to the Canadian soldiers killed in military service.  Formally known as the Tower of Victory and Peace, the tower extends over 300 feet high and is a distinctive component of the Ottawa skyline.  It contains a bell and clock, and it serves as an icon of the country; Peace Tower is featured on Canada’s twenty-dollar bill. 

The grounds are home to many sculptures, including The Famous Five - "Women are Persons!"  The Persons Case in 1929 was won by five women and led to a court ruling that declared women as persons under the law and made them eligible for appointment to the Senate in Canada.  The sculpture shows the five women celebrating this important legal victory.

In front of the Parliament buildings is the Centennial Flame, which commemorates Canada’s first 100 years. Constructed in 1967, the flame is surrounded by a fountain decorated by the 10 Canadian Coats of Arms. Coins tossed into the pool are used to fund projects helping the disabled.  The area is patrolled in summer by members of the Canadian Mounted Police, looking very dashing in their Mountie uniforms of scarlet jackets, Stetsons, riding breeches, and knee boots.

 

Throughout the summer, there are daily performances of Northern Lights, an impressive 30-minute multimedia show set against the backdrop of the Parliament Buildings. As Canada celebrates its 150th anniversary in 2017, the audience is taken on a journey of sound and light through the important milestones in Canada’s history.

 

LOWER TOWN

Major’s Hill Park sits on the banks of the Rideau Canal at the mouth of the Ottawa River.  This urban green space is situated among several notable buildings in Ottawa and offers great views of the Ottawa River and Parliament,

The U.S. Embassy adjoins the park.  It is notable for its size, if nothing else.

National Gallery of Canada is an ultra-modern design with prism-like glass towers that echo the lines of the nearby Parliament Buildings.  Inside, galleries display aboriginal art, trace the development of Canadian art and explore European Impressionism.  A menacing, house-size bronze spider (Mamam, by Louise Bourgeois) stalks the entrance. 

The Notre Dame Cathedral Basilica is a National Historic Site across the street from the National Gallery and the Major’s Hill Park.  The first building was founded in 1832, but was replaced ten years later by the building that exists today. The neo-classical design is a detailed and ornate creation that is the largest and oldest church in Ottawa.

Just down the road is Rideau Hall, the home and workplace of Canada’s Governor General, as well as the home away from home for the Queen and other visiting dignitaries.  It was built in 1838, and has been the residence of every Governor General since Canada’s Confederation in 1867.

The grounds include 80 acres of rolling lawns, winding paths, forest and gardens.  The grounds were originally modeled on the style of an English country estate, but it has been modified by creating a winding driveway and adding uniquely Canadian landscaping elements – such as the totem pole and the inuksuk.  The 10,000 trees on the property are mostly evergreens and sugar maples.  Since 1906, it has become a Canadian tradition to have ceremonial tree plantings by visiting heads of state. 

 

The entrance to the estate is guarded by two sentries of the colorful Ceremonial Guard.  The changing of the guards (known here as the Relief of the Sentries) takes place hourly, accompanied by bagpipe and high-stepping marching around.

 

Byward Market is one of Canada’s oldest (1826) and largest public markets.  Covering about 30 acres of land, it features over 250 stands and booths housing over 600 businesses.  Restaurants and cafes dot the area, with the market boasting vegetable and fruit stands, flower stalls, and merchants selling jewelry and clothing.

Outdoor stalls sell local favorites like poutine – a Quebecois dish made with French fries and cheese curds topped with a light brown gravy.  It tastes much better than it sounds, but good idea to have your cardiologist’s phone number on speed dial.

The main market building is home to the Moulin de Provence Bakery, a favorite snack stop of President Obama.  In 2009, Obama visited Ottawa and made a quick stop here to buy a cookie.  He got a shortbread cookie shaped like a maple leaf, with “Canada” written on it.  When he tasted the cookie and exclaimed, “I love this country,” he won the hearts of all Canadians.  Ever since, these popular cookies are called Obama cookies, but there is some competition coming now from Canada’s handsome young prime minister. 

Ottawa’s reputation as the shawarma capital of Canada is borne out by the number of shawarma shops all over town.  Shawarma is a Lebanese meat-filled pita sandwich; slow-roasted meat cone shavings are wrapped in a warm pita and generously topped with your choice of sour pickles, pickled turnips, tahini and garlic sauce.  We gave it a try at the market – tasty enough to make us wish we were staying long enough to eat some more!

Our favorite market goody was Beaver Tails (Queues de Castor) – a fried dough pastry hand-stretched to resemble a beaver’s tail.  The pastry is topped with a choice of sweet condiments, such as whipped cream, banana slices, crumbled Oreos, cinnamon sugar, and chocolate hazelnut.   We had tried Beaver Tails in Quebec City, but Byward Market is home to the original store, so we felt obligated to check it out (several times).

 

We had read that Ottawa had even more murals than we'd seen in Quebec City.  That may well be, but they sure aren't easy to find - they are scatted all over the city.  Here are three that were near the market.

 

ACROSS THE RIVER – GATINEAU 

The Canadian Museum of History is located in Gatineau, Quebec, directly across the Ottawa River from Ottawa’s Parliament Hill.  The museum is all about understanding the events, experiences, people and objects that have shaped Canada’s history and identity.  The exhibition halls are enormous – one contains the world’s largest indoor collection of totem poles.

From the dock in front of the museum, we hopped on a boat for a waterfront tour of Ottawa and the surrounding area.   We had a look at the Rideau Falls, as well as the homes of the Canadian Prime Minister and the U.S. Ambassador.  

 

BACK TO NEW YORK STATE

Niagara Falls is the collective name for three waterfalls that straddle the international border between Canada and the United States - specifically, they are located on the Niagara River, which drains Lake Erie into Lake Ontario, between the province of Ontario and the state of New York.  From largest to smallest, the three waterfalls are the Horseshoe Falls, the American Falls and the Bridal Veil Falls. The Horseshoe Falls lies on the border of the United States and Canada, with the American Falls and the smaller Bridal Veil Falls on the American side.   Collectively, these falls are by volume the largest waterfalls in North America.

Niagara Falls was formed when glaciers receded at the end of the last ice age, and water from the newly formed Great Lakes carved a path through to the Atlantic Ocean. While not exceptionally high, Niagara Falls is almost a mile wide. More than six million cubic feet of water falls over the crest line every minute in high flow, and almost four million cubic feet on average.

Our first views of the falls were from the river walk, along the Niagara River between the American and Bridal Veil Falls to our left and the Canadian Falls to our right.   Each step offered a slightly different view of the falls and the river, thus requiring about a thousand pictures to be taken along the way.  Here are just a few:

 

Lots of walking and lots of photos later, we headed to the Skylon Tower, still on the Canadian side of the river.  The tower opened in 1964 and offers dinner and great views some 775 feet above the falls.   Its Yellow Bug Elevators have a glass-enclosed exterior so you can view your ascent up to the top; not much time for pictures in there - the whole trip takes less than a minute.  

 

And then, on to our hotel, the Falls View Embassy Suites.  Oh, my – what a great location.  The hotel was nice, but the view from our room was incredible – we could see the American and Canadian falls in a spectacular panorama of power and beauty.  After dark, there were constantly changing colored lights playing over the water, followed by a grand fireworks display, followed by a spectacular sunrise!

 

 

HEADING HOME ... WEST VIRGINIA

When the state of Virginia voted to secede from the United States during the Civil War, the people of the rugged and mountainous western region of the state opposed the decision and organized to form their own state, West Virginia,in support of the Union. Today, West Virginia is a major coal-producing state, supplying 15 percent of the nation’s coal. Famous West Virginia natives include actor Don Knotts, gymnast Mary Lou Retton and test pilot Chuck Yeager.

Tamarack, near Beckley WV, houses The Best of West Virginia - it is said to be the nation’s first showcase of handcrafts, fine art and regional cuisine. It includes a retail store, working studios for resident artisans, a fine art gallery, a theater, A Taste of West Virginia food court, and a conference center.  Tamarack is widely recognized for all aspects of promoting West Virginia arts, crafts, food products, and those who produce or perform them.